Bike riding with Enoch

This morning Enoch and I headed out early for a bike ride to the salt mines near Goi. I had taken a short bike ride by myself on Tuesday morning, heading to the left of the library. It was very pleasant but I felt as if I would enjoy the journey much more with a guide and companion. Enoch told me that the bike at the library was donated by a young Peace Corps volunteer who had lived in a nearby village for two years. I often think of these young people, so far away from home. They must be much more mature than I was at that age.



Salting is a non-rainy season activity. As the water in the coastal shallows dries, it leaves behind an accumulation of salt on the earth. This salt is collected and transported in what looks like small rowboats on the land and gathered into white piles that resemble snow cones. Some of the piles are covered by straw mats, protecting them from the rains.









Having grown up in Kansas, I appreciated the vast flatness of the area. I even enjoyed the thick mud in which we found ourselves--dirt looks good on a girl.

Cooking with Rose

Rose has shown me how to cook two kinds of soup, ground nut soup and palm nut soup. "Ground nut" is another term for peanut and the soup is made from peanut butter, tomatoes, onion, garlic, ginger, and water. Most people would also add fish or meat but due to my vegetarian diet, we added eggplant and carrot. We purchased all the ingredients from a small local store nestled in the various family compounds of Goi.

We also cooked some palm nut soup, a process that takes some serious arm muscle strength. Rose brought along a small pestle and mortar and ground the palm nuts from looking like this....

to looking like this....

After pounding the nuts, Rose added water to the nut pulp, strained it and repeat. She put onion, garlic, ginger, red pepper, and tomato to the pestle and pounded it into a puree. She added it

to the pot and after boiling, it turned into....

palm nut soup.

Arrival in Goi

I arrived in Goi Sunday evening, riding in from Accra with Joanna, Jennifer, and our driver Kwame. We were welcomed by Vivien, the head librarian, and her two children, Rose and Enoch (who also work at the library). Vivien began working with Osu Children's Library Fund in 2001 when Kathy delivered a box of books to her school library. Through the years she has seen the OCLF library move from an abandonned building on the beach to a storeroom in the school to its present location-- a beautiful and functional building built with OCLF funds, completed in 2008.

The building is beautiful, as are all the OCLF libraries, but what really gives life to the Kathy Knowles Community in Goi are the people. Vivien is a natural librarian. Her love of books and reading is obvious in the wonderful book collection (comic books, African writers' series, textbooks, and international picture books), her ability to mesmerize the kids with her story time, and the asssortment of activities available. Rose and Enoch are also involved with the library, tutoring students, supervising activities, managing the library football team, or teaching the evening adult literacy classes.

My living accomodations for the week are the guest quarters in the rear of the library. I feel priveleged to have a fan, indoor toilet, and my own kitchen with hotplate and sink. My second evening we had no electricity and Rose was kind enough to show me how to use the brazier with charcoal to cook my dinner. As I walk out the door, lizards scurry about ahead of me. Drums and an occasional gunshot is heard, all part of a muslim celebration down the street. People are quick to meet my smile and greeting with their own. Everyone ready to help me find my way through the houses to the water. I have already walked along the coast a couple of times, boats and beach are beautiful.

Today the Du Bois Centre, tomorrow Goi

First thing I want to write, as of tomorrow, my blog will be on hold for a week while I visit the OCLF library in Goi, a small fishing village east of Accra. I will not be taking my laptop with me for several reasons: I'm not sure my modem would work; I want to leave my laptop here for Jennifer (to further corrupt her into joining the cybergeneration) and Joanna (who is writing an acceptance speech for the IBBY award to be presented to OCLF in Spain, September, 2010); and to prove to myself that I can survive a week in Ghana sans computer. I mean, com'on, laptop and modem in fishing village? I'm not THAT connected.

I suspect that Goi will be a photographer's dream and plan on posting many pictures and stories to my blog upon my return.

Now, about today. I did work this morning at the Nima Library. I really enjoyed having a group of kids read to me for two hours. We had various levels of reading ability; from excellent to beginner. Some of the beginner kids do a great job "reading" Kathy's books. And I don't have to correct anyone, the kids correct one another.

After my long work day (I was done by noon), I headed out to find the W.E.B. Du Bois Centre. Du Bois was the first African-American to graduate from Harvard and is considered to be the founder of Pan-Africanism. He was also tried by the House Committee on Un-American Affairs for alleged communist sympathies in the 1950s. This could have served to encourage Du Bois to accept the invitation of President Nkrumah to move to Ghana in 1961.

The Centre includes the home of Du Bois from 1961 until his death in 1963 as well as his tomb. The museum is simple; Du Bois' personal library, a room with photographs and a few artifacts (Du Bois' graduation robes from Harvard, his dinner ware, diplomas...) and the public research library. His personal library is under lock and key but the research library is open to the public. I would guess they have about four hundred books (many recent publications) about Du Bois, Africa, and Pan-Africanism.

Photo to the right; A section of Du Bois' personal library.

The Nima Maamobi Library

Friday and Saturday of this week I was at the Nima Maamobi Library. While the tro-tro ride to Nungua library was one and a half hours by tro-tro, the Nima Library is just across the street from the Guest House. It is the "small library" that sits in front of the Nima Learning Center, right on the edge of the Kanda Highway.

The Nima Library opened in 1998, only two years after the opening of the original library, the Kathy Knowles Library in the Osu neighborhood. While the building was under construction Kathy was introduced to Hannah by mutual friends. Kathy recognized that Hannah was the right person to head the new Nima Library and convinced her to accept the position. Hannah has been here ever since and tells me she loves her job; working with the kids, making changes in their lives, and also helping to strengthen the community. It was at this "little library," as it is now called, that so many of the community programs began-- the drumming group, the theatrical company, the choir, the football club, and even a bathing program.

In addition the above groups, the Nima Library has operated a food program since 1998, distributing lunch to kids from 1:30-2:00 p.m. daily. Someone in the neighborhood cooks the hot meals and delivers it to the Library. On Friday they served rice, eggs, and greens, it looked and smelled delicious. The Nima Library also holds literacy classes on Tuesday and Thursday mornings and receive an average of 20-25 students broken into three-four groups based on reading level.

One really beautiful thing about this library is the landscaping and gardens created by Samuel, groundskeeper and security person. He has done a wonderful job in creating a green refuge literally inches from the busy and noisy Kanda Highway.

Photos: Upper right, The Nima Maamobi Library and grounds; Upper left, some of the staff and service workers at Nima Library: Emma, Samuel, Mohammad, and Kate; and Right, one of the artists with self-portrait for the "Lets Hold Hands" project.

Visit to the IPS, new construction site, and the Balme Library

On Wednesday I met up with Foster and we caught a tro-tro to Legon, an area just outside of Accra. Our first stop was the Institute for Professional Status, a small public university specializing in marketing, accounting, and global enterprise. (Click on hotlink or see page to the left for more details).


We also visited the new construction site in Legon for another OCLF Library. From what has been built already, the design looks very similar to the Nima Learning Center. Circular in shape with large pillars surrounding. Once again, the community gave the land and the OCLF is funding construction of the building.



And to finish up our trip we went to the Balme Library at the University of Ghana. A beautiful building with an impressive number of library staff, online databases, and special collections (Click on hotlink or see page to the left for more details). Foster and I ate lunch at the Bush Canteen, the university cafeteria where we both feasted on ground nut soup with fish. Foster ate his with a serving of banku, fermented maize and grated cassava tuber, mixed thoroughly and served with the consistency of bread dough. I also performed a social faux-pas by washing my left hand in the basin on the table. Think I am going to have to tie my left hand behind my back...

Fun times in Ghana

So, I am getting ready to write papers on two more libraries, the Institute of Professional Status and the Balme Library at the University of Ghana-- but first I would like to have a blog entry just about Beth and Fun in Ghana

Off the top of my head, some of the best times so far (in no particular order):


Breakfast / Dinner prepared by Joanna. She makes chocolate chip banana bread and oatmeal cookies. Now my family knows that these are two of my most favorite things in the world. The question is, how did Joanna know?

The lizard at Bridge House Hotel.


The bats in the Fort at Elmina.



The fishing boats at Elmina and Cape Coast.


Eric, the tour guide at Cape Coast Castle.


Flirting with farmers from Bristol.



Finding a coffee shop at Max Mart and getting jangled off two cups of coffee. Eating a Cadbury chocolate bar.


Deborah Cowley's (dedicated OCLF volunteer) fabulous book shelf at the Guest House (Coetzee, The Camel Bookmobile, Garcia Marquez and many African authors).


Having two dresses custom made for me by Mr. Charles, Joanna's tailor.


Going to church with Joanna.


The reception at the U.S. Ambassador's home, sponsored by NAWA.


Getting email and Facebook messages from family and friends.


The tro-tro ride back and forth from Nungua.

The big rainstorm at the Nungua Library and helping Abigail to rush and close the windows.


Teaching the adult literacy classes.


Getting to know the OCLF staff, volunteers, and children.


Venturing off by myself into the streets of Ghana.

Nungua Library

Monday through Thursday of this week I am visiting Nungua Library, also run by the OCLF in conjunction with the Nungua Municipality. The library was built in 2004. From what people have told me, the Nungua community approached Kathy to build a library in their area. Kathy came to look at the plot of the land they offered to donate and liked it. The library sits in a large complex surrounded by different schools, perhaps four different school housed in 7-8 buildings. The OCLF built the library on the donated land and the community agreed to pay salaries and utilities. One snag though, the Nungua Municipality has been slow to pay the salaries. Kathy has stepped in and gives small amounts to the staff in the interim.

The building is surrounded by landscaped grounds and has a small outdoor theater. Along the outside runs a very nice covered patio. As you enter, there is a place to put your bags, shelves on which to place your shoes, and sinks to wash your hands. Inside are high ceilings with exposed beams, orange tile under your feet, and good natural light coming in from the windows that line all the walls. The books are kept in low shelves along the walls or in bins in the center of the rooms.

My hostess this week is Abigail, the head of the Ningua Library. Abigail worked with Joanna in the Kathy Knowles Library for nine years before becoming head of the library at Nungua six years ago. Other staff members include Joshua, Latitia, and Hanna.

Abigail tells me that during the school break, the library can have 300-400 children a day. Activities include puzzles, story time, composition, bingo, and Bible study. Many older students and teachers from the area schools come to the library throughout the day to study and prepare for class. And something very cool, each day the kids quit what they are doing at 4:30, stack up the chairs and sweep out the library. This also happens at the Kathy Knowles Library and it is a wonderful way for the kids to take extra pride and ownership of their library.

Weekend Adventures II

Early Saturday morning I went to the Makola market with Joanna and Jennifer. Makola market sells to mostly Ghanaians as opposed to the markets that sell to tourists. It is a huge market spanning many blocks, stalls both indoors and outdoors. I looked at fabric and bought myself some indigo blue cloth and some batik cloth. My plan is to take them to Joanna's tailor and have him make me dresses. The dresses here are truly amazing, they fit your shape and are very flattering. Now, of course, I don't have much of a shape but I'm hoping the tailor is also a miracle worker. Joanna also bought some cloth and later surprised me with a new dress she had made for me. She is truly a generous and kind soul. I think later I will devote a whole blog entry just to her cooking.

On Sunday morning I went to church with Joanna and Jennifer. A large church with very high ceilings, many people in attendance. I was impressed by the singing and the fundraising for the community. I also enjoyed looking at all the dresses, trying to figure out what would be flattering on an 'athletic' build-- euphemism for flat chested and skinny.

After returning from church I headed out on a solo adventure to see the sights of Accra. Took a taxi to Jamestown Light House and then walked to the National Museum, the Nkrumah Memorial, the Cultural Center, and Independence Square. I have included photos of all the above sights in my Flickr photostream. I really enjoyed spending the hottest part of the day in the National Museum, looking at the exhibits on local dance and weaving, reading about the slave trade, and sometimes sitting just because there was a chair nearby. The gift store was my first sight of what tourists buy in Accra. Funny how everywhere I travel, there are always the prescribed items for the tourist to purchase. Here it is wooden carvings, beads, drums, paintings, and weaving (I'm sure I am forgetting something). And I saw much much more of all this at the Cultural Center, actually a large outdoor market for tourists. And to enjoy being woo'd and sometimes insulted by the market vendors themselves. Sometimes annoying, sometimes fun.

In summary, it was hot. I got sunburned. I bought five painted cards and some beads. Sunday was a good choice for walking the (now) quiet streets. I met a fellow traveler from the U.S. working with the Peace Corps but can't remember her name, like two ships passing in the night. The orange drink I bought and drank at the Nkrumah Memorial was the most wonderful drink I have ever drank.

(Above, Dancing with Nkrumah; Left, Outdoor mural at the Ghana National Museum)

Covering books, cleaning the library, and washing our hands

This morning Joanna instructed me in the art of covering books with plastic. Only two months ago I was receiving instruction from Greta back in the U.S. on how to laminate paperbacks to take to Bolivia. Covering the books here is so important in maintaining clean and functional reading materials. For someone who has never experienced life in an economically challenged country, the dirt and grime can be difficult to imagine. Ghanaians spend a lot of effort combating dirt and its effects. On Monday morning Joanna, Enoch, Foster, and I all washed every book in the Library, every puzzle, and every shelf. Joanna swept and mopped the floor.


Further efforts to combat the dirt attack is to remove our shoes upon entering the Library and placing them on a shelf. Then we go to the basin and wash our hands. Even these measures do not result in clean books. I consider myself to be a tidy enough individual but my notebook gets grimier every day. It's beginning to look quite impressive.

Adult literacy and tea at the Ambassador's Residence

This morning I taught my first adult literacy class. Michelle, the usual teacher, could not come today so I worked with her class. Three students; Jonathan, Janet, and James. We went over the short 'o' sound as in 'pot.' I also forgot to check the math homework until the hour was almost over but James helped me remember. He is a fisherman by trade but has come to the Kathy Knowles Library to learn more reading and math. He also had one of Kathy's books, a book about the fishing village of Goi, where I will be headed next week. I very much want this book. All in all, I enjoyed the experience think I did a good job. I hope to have the chance to do this more in the future (wherever life takes me).

Yesterday, Heather, the wife of the Canadian Ambassador to Ghana was at the Kathy Knowles Library meeting with the parents of a baby who had just had an operation to fix a cleft palate. While she was here she invited Joana and I to a 'Friend's Tea' hosted by NAWA (North American Women's Association). The purpose of the tea was for NAWA members to bring a Ghanaian friend and to all share stories about what we are doing in Ghana. And even though Joanna and I are both introverts at heart, we saw this as a good opportunity to talk a bit about OCLF to women from the U.S., Canada, and Ghana.

The tea was held at the residence of the U.S. Ambassador. Beautiful house and secure grounds. Air-conditioning. Big beautiful dogs and a motorcycle parked right by the front door (does the ambassador ride?). Inside were very pretty women (no sweat, no frizz, no grime) who had prepared some delicious food for their guests. The chocolate cake and no-bake cookies were yummy and the BREWED (not instant) coffee was so very good (three cups for me, thank you). An extra treat was seeing Joanna's sister who works at the U.S. Embassy as a cook.

And, no, I have no pictures of the tea. Just like the wedding party in the Nima neighborhood, I felt that it would be too intrusive. I did have some thoughts while at the tea... I heard one woman say that she would have brought a Ghanaian friend but that she lives in a 'diplomatic bubble' and has met very few Ghanaians. Hmmm... I see thousands of people every day and maybe one is white. We must hang out in different social circles. Got me wondering about the social hierarchy of the international circle in Ghana-- Diplomats /Corporate Officers/ Ex-Patriots/ Peace Corps Members/ Volunteers/ Migrant workers (?). And what does the Embassy wife think when she meets the young tanned and scruffy Peace Corps worker? Does she see herself from the past or see a future Embassy wife?

I had a very nice time at the Friend's Tea and would like to thank Heather, Michelle, and Cathy for inviting me to several functions involving internationals in Ghana. They have given me a glimpse into a world I never thought I would enter. I am very much intrigued by the possibility of being an international aid worker or an ex-pat working in a university library outside the U.S.

Nima Learning Center

(Below) Taufic at the Nima Learning Center

Three evenings last week I visited the Nima Education Center across the street from the guest house. During these visits I spoke with various staff and volunteers about the activities, programs, history, and importance of the Nima Education Center. The Center was built in 2006, a joint project between The Osu Children's Library Fund and the Accra Metropolitan Assembly (AMA). I learned so much about the Nima Learning Center I have written a separate 'page,' available on the left sidebar, underneath the Flickr photostream or by clicking here.

I want to thank Taufic, Michael, Martin, and Nathaniel for the time they spent with me and the wonderful conversations.

Padmore Library, Ghana Library Board, and the Osu Library

Foster and Coretta at the Tomb of George Padmore behind the George Padmore Research Library on African Affairs

Today I went to visit three public libraries and the Ghana Library Board with Foster, a staff member at the Kathy Knowles Library. Foster is currently completing his national service and will be working with OCLF until July. He has also worked at the Ghana Library Board in the past, allowing us to see some of the behind-the-scenes action (Cataloging Room!). The three public libraries we visited were the George Padmore Research Library on African Affairs, the Ghana Library Board's main library, and the Osu Children's Library. All of these libraries are in Accra. I also had the opportunity to meet with the Director of the Ghana Library Board, Mr. Adjei Apenten, a fellow doctorate candidate. He provided me with a general history of libraries and librarianship in Ghana, as well as a brief description of the Ghana Library Board

I learned so much today about public libraries in Accra that I have created separate 'pages' for the different libraries. These pages can be found on the left sideboard, under the 'Flickr Photostream' gadget.

Ghana House of Parliament

In addition to our visit to the three libraries, Foster and I walked to the Ghana House of Parliament. Outside at security they told us we could visit but no photography. Once inside the compound, we headed into the building to a less than enthusiastic welcome from the staff inside. Enoch had the persistence to ask for a tour of the facility and a gentleman agreed to show us around. As we walked, the guie became more and more friendly, joking with us and telling us many things about the Parliament. I learned that the Speaker House is a woman, the female to hold the post. A huge building behind the Parliament is undergoing renovation and will be offices for all the representatives (they have no government supplied offices at this time). Lobbying also exists in Ghana, with large comfortable reception areas for people to wait for their representative (unless he doesn't want to speak to you, then you may never see him. Not so different than the U.S.)

As Foster and I left, we were given permission to take pictures, both inside and outside the building. I have noticed a trend in Ghanaian-tourist interactions. If the tourist displays kindness and respect, they will be treated in a similar fashion.

'Let's Hold Hands' project at Kathy Knowles Library

Today at the Kathy Knowles Library I presented the 'Let's Hold Hands' story and art project to the kids. I read aloud the book Into the Wind illustrated by Susan Roth, a much shorter version of Greg Mortenson's Three Cups of Tea. Greg Mortenson has been very successful in building school and libraries in Pakistan and Afghanistan, a mission very similar to Kathy's success with building libraries here in Ghana. After reading the book, I talked a bit about the collage style of the artwork, explaining how the illustrations in the book are scraps of paper, cloth, and other items we might normally throw away as waste. Next I gave each child their own paper doll and let them make their own small person using the fabric, paper, beads, yarn, and recycled items that I had brought with me from the United States.

I had also brought with me a number of dolls created by children in the United States. Each of these dolls included a small bit of information about the child-- their first name, age, school, the city in which they live, and any general information they wished to share. I discussed a bit about the message of peace in Greg's book, in that education and interaction with people from around the world helps us to understand that we can work together in peace. When the kids at the Kathy Knowles Library finished their dolls they also filled out a piece of paper with their information and glued it to the back of the dolls. They all agreed to sending their dolls on a long voyage to the U.S. to meet other children around the world.

The project got a slow start, only about four children were present at the beginning. But soon more and more children came to participate. Soon I had handed out all 24 dolls! I had a lot of fun working with the kids and got some great photos. I do believe the kids absorbed the fact that the dolls were going abroad and I hope to take pictures of their dolls with U.S. kids and send them back to Joanna.

I would like to also thank Jeanne Lawrence for her help with this project and Margaret Gregor for supplying the dolls in a beautiful array of skin colors.

A walk through Nima neighborhood

Sunday evening Joanna arranged for an acquaintance, Nathaniel, to give me a tour of our neighborhood-- Nima. Nima is one of the poorer neighborhoods of Accra and is home to Muslims, Christians, and Traditionalists. We turned off Kanda Highway onto a narrow dirt road, into the center of Nima. Loud music announced the large wedding party ahead of us. At least eighty women were sitting in plastic chairs arranged in a circle outdoors, all dressed up in beautiful formal dresses. Inside the circle three women danced slowly, two dropping money while a third (the bride?) picked it up. Life continued on the streets-- children, men, vendors. I was struck by the open sewers and the smells but no one else seemed to take notice, they were just having a good time.

It was difficult but I kept my camera in my bag. Pity the poor ignorant tourist who tried to take pictures of this scene.

From the wedding celebration we headed to the Nima Market. Since it was Sunday the market had few customers and few vendors. We did walk through the butcher area. All I can say is, if I was not already a vegetarian I would be now. Cultural differences? Maybe. But the goats head on display next to the meat really reminds one that they are eating something that was alive that morning. Much more personal. So unlike our packaged, sterile, and anonymous meat departments in the United States.

I plan on walking to the Nima Market on my own later in the visit. So far, the vast majority of people have been kind and helpful. Vendors try to get my attention to purchase items and sometimes men try and strike up conversations in order to work with me as a guide. A simple strategy that seems to work is to have a small smile (but try not to look insane) and ignore the vendors and men. Save my greetings for the women and children. And a handshake, smile, and greeting to anyone with whom I do speak.

Weekend adventures, cont.

Caught a group taxi back to Elmina and took a siesta in the air-conditioning. It was so wonderful and I realize how fortunate I am to have biscuits, candy, and a diet coke in an air-conditioned hotel room. What are simple and expected pleasures in the United States are almost extravagant here.

After my rest I headed back out to visit Elmina Castle and Elmina Fort. The castle is very much like the one in Cape Coast. What I really enjoyed was exploring the fort overlooking Elmina. John, my guide, showed me the fort with its bats, fantastic views, narrow and steep stairs, and a large european-style bathtub tipped over on its side (?).

I had dinner at the hotel, ground nut stew and fried plantain. Early to bed and out early the next morning to catch a bus to Accra.

My favorite experiences this weekend: the colors of the boats and fishing nets in the harbour; my tour guide Erik and his story-telling; the view from the top of Elmina Fort; getting up early Saturday morning to take pictures; the fact that even though I was feeling apprehensive about the trip I did not let that keep me from a great adventure.

A tale of two bookstores...

In Cape Coast, near the Castle, lived two bookstores... The first bookstore I found was small, about 20 square feet. It contained many textbooks for learning English, math, and computer skills. Two or three books about farming and family. It also sold study guides for exams such as the TOEFL. The few books for pleasure reading were inexpensive and produced in Africa. One book had a racy illustration on the cover but I think the characters were supposed to be Adom [sic] and Eve in Paradise. The bookstore was run by an amiable man who had some trouble understanding my Ghanaian English.

The second bookstore was twice as large as the first and was filled with fiction in English, German, Italian, and French. All the best-selling authors were there-- Grisham, King, etc. The man running this store understood my English very well, obviously accustomed to working with tourists.

The moral from this tale? What should libraries in Africa look like? Perhaps books for instruction in language, math, farming, and household management. The fiction would be simple and feature African characters and themes. Study guides for national and international exams would be available. The library would be staffed with people from the local community, a neighbor among neighbors.

Weekend adventure, Elmina and Cape Coast

Friday afternoon I headed out to catch a bus for Elmina, about three hours west of Accra along the Ghanaian coast. The most memorable thing about the bus ride was the air-conditioning and the soap operas they showed. The plot involved a wife-girlfriend-man triangle-- the stuff of good modern African drama. I arrived in Elmina around 9 p.m. and checked into my hotel, the Bridge House. Arriving anywhere at night can be a bit disorienting, I went out for a bit and bought some cookies and candy but realized morning would be a much better time for exploration.

I awoke bright and early Saturday. There was some great morning light for taking pictures of Elmina Castle and the fishing boats. During breakfast I had a nice chat with some farmers from Bristol, England. They were here as volunteers, repairing buildings in the area.

I headed straight out to find a group taxi to Cape Coast, a larger city about 15 minutes away. Cape Coast Castle may be the biggest tourist attraction in Ghana. It is famous because of its history as one of the headquarters for the slave trade in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. I took a guided tour and really enjoyed watching and listening to our tour guide, Erik. He really knew how to tell a story. I was in camera heaven, so many great shots of the Castle and the boats on the coast. BUT I must be careful to never point the camera directly at a person without permission. Ghanaians will be very quick to tell you to NOT take the picture. One woman made it clear I could not take pictures of her fish... live and learn.

Last Day of School Break Program

Today was the last day for the school break program at the Kathy Knowles Library. For one month during the school break, Joanna and her staff invite children to come on Monday-Wednesday-Friday mornings for lessons, projects, and reading. I counted approximately 24 students attending. The library also furnished lunch-- on Wednesday it was bread with either margarine or peanut butter. I chose the peanut butter and it was delicious. But today was the last day of the program so there was a special treat of cold drinks and biscuits! As well as a pencil and pen for each child.

We also worked on creating books. After the teachers stapled together five pieces of white paper and one piece of sturdier red paper for the cover, the kids went to work writing and illustrating their books. Joanna let me work with the 'good friends" group- the seven-nine year olds. These kids are really amazing, 'A' is a very good reader and wants to become a librarian. 'K' is one of the brightest AND one of the most mischievious. 'E' can quote me Kathy Knowles books by heart. I loved working with them but it was also one of the most demanding jobs I have ever performed. I think this month will give me a new respect for teachers/children's librarians/ and media coordinators all around the world.

Adult literacy, Kenkey, and Kathy's books

On Thursday morning I again observed Joanna's adult literacy class. She has a wonderful rapport with her students. We reviewed vowels and I helped grade the assignments. The students are used to teachers grading in just the right way, marks for correct answers here, total grades and corrections written just so. I really learned a lot this morning.

For lunch I ate kenkey, fermented corn meal mush cooked in a corn husk. Very filling and quite tasty. Joanna supplemented our lunch with can fish, cucumbers, and tomato, so it was quite a feast. A volunteer worker, Michelle, visited with us. She works with the North American Women's Association (NAWA) and raised funds for the adult literacy learners to take a day trip to the Cape Coast at the end of the month. Mr. Foster, one of the library staff, gave us an interesting and informative history of the Cape Coast Castle, just in time for my travels this weekend!

In the afternoon we worked with the kids to make Mothers Day cards. I made one for my mom (very far away) and helped the kids with theirs. We also had time to read books-- the children read books to me and I read books to the children. The books written and illustrated by Kathy Knowles, founder of OCLF, are the most popular. Many of the books feature photos of local Ghanaians and are printed here in Ghana-- much needed support for the local publishing industry.

The Kathy Knowles Library

During my four weeks in Ghana I will be volunteering at four different locations. The first two weeks I will be working at the Kathy Knowles Library, a small neighborhood library directed by Joanna, The library was re-named by the community in honor of the OCLF founder. It is a former shipping crate painted, decorated, and filled with books, puzzles, desks, and school supplies. It also has an adjunct building that serves as a computer lab (more information about the lab tomorrow).



The library itself is painted a beautiful blue with a covered terrace and a garden in the front. Inside, the books were kept covered overnight with cloths to keep the dust off the books (more pictures of uncovered books soon!). The classes for adult literacy learners are held on Tuesday and Thursday mornings and I had the good fortune to sit in with Joanna's adult learners. I really admire Joanna's good nature and skill as a teacher. She is effective yet keeps the mood light and engaging.



In the afternoon, the children arrived. We spent the first hour reading books. I found many of my family's favorites on the shelves, including The Whispering Bunny and Max and Ruby. But the most popular books were those created by Kathy Knowles herself, a series of books featuring children from Accra. I even found pictures of Joanna and Jennifer among the illustrations. The second hour was spent playing games (matching game, snakes-n-ladders, pick up sticks), and the last hour and a half was story-time. Again, I have to say how much I appreciate joanna's teaching skills and sense of humor.

Accra

In the morning, Joanna, Jennfier, and I all hopped aboard a tro-tro (passenger van used for public transport) to go to work. My firsy impression of Accra in the daylight was of a large city, many poeple, intense light, and busy traffic-- I quickly dismissed my idea of renting a bike for my stay. On a personal note, I seemed to thrive on the fact that I may be the only person I see for long periods of time. I enjoy stepping outside of my "ordinary life" and into something new. Plus I have always felt a bit of an outsider, perhaps due to my introverted personality.

Arrival in Ghana

On May 2, the day of departure, John, I, and our friends Walton and Mary Ellis rode our bikes 50 miles through the boroughs of NYC. It was an organized ride with 32,000 riders. The ride was a lot of fun but tiring, especially right before a 13 hour evening flight. I arrived in Accra, Ghana, the evening of May 3 and was greeted at the airport by Joanna, the first Ghanaian OCLF librarian, her daughter Jennfier, and our driver, Kwame. I felt comfortable and welcomed from the moment of my arrival. And yes, it is incredibly hot, especially after our snowy winter in Boone but I am quickly adapting.

That night I was in a deep sleep when I heard a man singing over a loud speaker. The singing was pleasant but puzzling. I think I was too sleepy to give it too much thought... the next morning Joanna explained that a Muslim mosque is acorss the street and what i heard was the 3 a.m. call to prayer. I have to admit, I think this is too cool-- very exotic to these Kansas-born ears. It is estimated that 60 percent of Ghanians are Christian and at least 25 percent are Muslim.